Ed Heddle

@Kit_L: Thanks re: pancake! I'm at the pointy end of the PhD—writing up. Indeed, I'm about to take myself away to the beach on the Yorke Peninsula for a week just to write and relax. I foresee many long, slow walks along the shore ahead! (I enjoy hunting for cowrie shells while walking—I find it demands that I be present, slow, patient, with a soft "not-trying" gaze. When I manage to do this, the cowries tend to jump into view...)

Hey all, I've been busy with life (doctorate, teaching, coaching, training, relaxing — all good stuff), hence no recent posts, but I've still been working actively on the grand project of opening up as a human, ideally in all regards. The coaching and teaching is winding down for the year, so I've found the energy to update you good folks on my journey. Journey towards owning the squat. I had a chat with Kit where he recommended using a seated calf raise machine to work on releasing my obdurate calf muscles. Progress is slow but real. In addition, I'm spending a few times a week in a "wall squat" for about 20 minutes or so, so that my body can get more used to the position. The fascia of the left calf in particular is quite tight with a number of adhesions (I have an old scar there from getting kicked by a horse), so I've been using rolling with a stick and a massage gun to pry this material prior to spending time in the squat. I took Kit's point that "the mind is mapping context continuously" onboard: I take it to mean that the release work one is doing release to be coupled with the end pose (albeit with needed modifications). Full pancake then regression. Back in May, after just a few sessions of partner stretching, I was able to achieve a full pancake (with appropriate warmup)—tummy to mat. (This position has always been quite easy in my body, so it just took a few sessions to work up to it.) I haven't trained it since, and, alas, I've regressed somewhat. Not a problem, but still, something to learn from: it's easier to maintain than it is to progress. (I suspect that the combination of deadlifts, kettlebell swings, and hard bouldering have tightened up my adductors; these muscles get a lot of use when climbing hard.) Towards the gymnastic bridge. I'm currently only working the partial poses, dealing with the lats and my thoracic area, and the hip flexor and quad stretches. For the former, I've been doing the ring lat stretch quite regularly. Since I want a longer time in the stretch and since I feel I need quite a large load for the contraction (I got my training partner to sit(!) on my hips while doing it yesterday), I've found it most helpful to use lifting straps. I've also been doing kettlebell pullovers with my body arranged perpendicularly to the bench, with my T-spine on the side of the bench. I'll soon add in a few holds of box bridge 1X/week. This pose is probably the ideal "anti-climbing" and "anti-piano" pose, getting me out of those habitual shapes. IOW, it's very challenging for me! Training. I've been climbing regularly, typically around 2 to 4 sessions per week, scaling the intensity as needed; sometimes on very easy ground, sometimes doing immensely hard moves. (I've been training about 1X/week on a "Moonboard" — see, for instance, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ6h244QsCQ.) I've also been doing heavy weights about 1X to 1.5X a week, depending on energy, as well as a partner stretching workout 1X/week. My next workout (which is tonight), will be Deadlift: warmup sets, then 5 x 5r x 125kg for the work sets Bench press: warmup sets, then 3 x 5r x 65kg for the work sets (this is about 1 x BW) Weighted pullups: 5r x BW as warmup, then 5 x 3r x (BW + 16kg) Pinch strength: 4 x 3r x 25kg (gripping a pinch block) "Strict" half crimp strength: 5 x 3r x 25kg (pulling on an 8mm edge, lifting it from the the floor — the video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMj8As56jAk&t=0s gives a good overview of this method of training) In general, I've had good results with the following progression, done once a week: with a 4RM or 5RM weight (say), start at 3 x 3r, then progress as follows 4 x 3r -> 5 x 3r -> 3 x 4r -> 4 x 4r -> 5 x 4r -> 3 x 5r -> 4 x 5r -> 5 x 5r -> retest. It feels superficially slow, but it feels like I'm really taking the time to own a given weight. Relaxing. I've been diligent with practicing most days; still, the world seems to be getting crazier, so I feel the need to practice more deeply—not only for my sake, but also to set a good role model for the kids I'm lucky enough to teach and coach. On that note, I'm going to lie down for an hour! Love to all for this holiday season!

Fri 28 Apr. Strength. A compressed KB session: KB haloes: 2 x 10r x 16kg Goblet squats (no curl): 2 x 5r 1H swings: 10r/side x 32, 32, 32kg (60 swings total) Get-ups: 1r/side x 32, 32, 32kg, plus an extra rep with 36kg on my weaker side (7 get-ups total) Sat 29 Apr. Bouldering. Bouldered outdoors in the Flinders Ranges. Did a moderate grade highball* boulder (around 10 metres, I think). Fortunately, the difficult moves extended only to about the 5m mark (which unfolded in a complete flow state, happily), after which the climbing was very easy and could be done with infinite care and precision. As always, an interesting engagement with the mind! *Highball bouldering is the climbing term for larger boulder objectives where the consequences of a fall get correspondingly more severe. I think of it as the space between regular bouldering and free soloing. Sun 30 Apr. Bouldering. Pulled on to an old (much smaller) project to see if the holds felt any bigger. They did! Nonetheless, I think I need to get quite a bit stronger before I can realistically hope to climb this particular line. My guess of the grade would be around V12, give or take a grade. Mon 1 May. Massage. Needed! Had a fair bit of tension down in the sacral area. Tue 2 May. Bouldering. Just a quick board session this afternoon. Stretching. Not much today. Just stretched out my finger flexors, did some squat movements, and had two long holds in a German hang on the rings, breathing deep into my chest.

Tue 25 Apr. Bouldering. Did some board climbing. Body tension wasn't the best, which I attribute to the heavy KB swings yesterday. Not a problem—a slight deficit in body tension meant that my technique and timing needed to be impeccable, so this deficit served as an instructive constraint. Wed 26 Apr. Strength. KB haloes: 3 x 10r x 16kg Ring pushups: 3 x 5r Goblet squats (plus bicep curl): 3 x 5r x 24kg 1H swings: 10r/side x 24, 24, 24, 24, 24kg (100 swings total) Get-ups: 2r/side x 24, 24, 24, 24kg (16 get-ups total) Stretching. Ring lat stretch, long hold Revolved head-to-knee pose Bolstered piriformis KB armbar with 6kg, long hold, exploring sensations Thu 27 Apr. Bouldering. Bouldered outside, working on my project. Reached a new high point, which was exciting, especially since I was still feeling Monday's efforts.

I've been desultory with my log of late, but I've still been training and climbing hard. Because things were quite busy for me (lots of climbing, coaching, teaching, and music), I've been in maintenance mode stretching-wise. Things are a bit calmer now, so I'm able to due some more serious stretching work. My current plan is to do a short session two to three times a week, working on loosening my posterior line with the aim of improving my pike and squat, and doing a all-round maintenance stretching session of Friday evening where I'll do some of the big ST stretches. Stretching. Elephant walk, with toes raised on a block. I certainly felt all the hiking I did through the Grampians, heavy bouldering pad strapped on my back! Jefferson curl, toes raised on a block, 3 x 8r x 20kg. Going very slowly, and trying to keep the abs well-engaged for the first part of the descent to also get a nice stretch through the T-spine. KB soleus stretch, using the 36 and then 40 kg 'bells. Single-leg downward dog, toes raised on a block, with the other leg on a wall, letting the free hip drop down, and hunting for my tight lines (which were not hard to find). Felt a very strong sensation in the outer hip in both cases—could this perhaps be a stretch of a line in piriformis that is otherwise hard to target in my body? Strength. KB haloes: 10r x 16, 20, 24kg Ring pushups: 3 x 8r Goblet squats: 5r x 28, 32, 32kg (plus a bicep curl in bottom position for each rep) 1H swings: 10r/side x 32, 40, 32, 44, 36kg Get-ups: 1r/side x 28, 36, 32, 36, 28kg Bedtime Limber. Boxing the compass Piriformis Lying rotation Biceps

@Kit_L Thanks sensei! And, belatedly, many happy returns for your 70th! Stretching. Very tentative forward bending movements, seeing how my right leg feels. I can feel strong protective sensations near the ischial tuberosity, and I suspect it's one of the hammies. My suspicion: some old scar tissue was exposed and then pried apart when I went a bit too deep into the pancake stretch the other day. (Back in 2015, I fell off my bike in a particularly stupid manner. I think there was probably some residual scar tissue in the right hamstrings which never got properly stressed and straightened out.) Supraspinatus/delt stretch—feeling some mild nerve tingles along the whole arm, especially on the RHS. Rear delt stretch. Put my arm on my piano bench, crossed my chest over it, and then slowly hunting for the tight line. R side was v/ tight, so I did it a few times. Also played with rolling a lacrosse ball on the tight spots in my rear delts. Thoracic extension: exercise 14 from S&F, using the top of the couch and holding a 6kg KB with the arms.

Mon 27 Mar. Right hamstring/adductor (near the buttock) is very sore today. Yoga Nidra. Massage. Discovered that my delts are exceptionally tight. I'll go hunting in the S&F book to find some good stretches for deltoids. Yes, that's the one! Thanks—I figured the movement must have a name.

Sun 26 Mar. Yoga Nidra. Movement. arm-bar press, both sides: 5r x 8kg, 2 x 5r x 12kg, 2 x 5r x 16kg. A lot of progress from yesterday. squat movements actively lowering into a quad stretch — not sure what the name of this would be bow pose Bouldering. three V4s on the moonboard, five times each. Great to be climbing again! Stretching. loaded pancake: with a barbell on my shoulders, lowering down into end range. I made good progress, but, alas, I felt a tweak near the glutes and inner groin area. The area is sore but functional, fortunately. I'm keen to see how the area feels tomorrow.

Sat 25 Mar. Yoga Nidra. Movement. Played around with a few movement tasks: Ido Portal stick game, trying to catch every fall of the stick in a squat position. sissy squats limbering with the single-leg downward dog pose. Noticed how the body escapes the stretch by letting the free hip move forward towards the hands. arm-bar press on RHS, 5r x 8kg. This is currently the limit for my R shoulder, where I can be mindful of all the sensations (mainly pec minor today) and keep everything in control.

Back to it! For the past few weeks, I was away in Fernie, Canada, catching up with my sister, and generally skiing up a storm. Friday 24 Mar. Stretching. jefferson curl, 2 x 5r x 20kg, super slow. For the last rep of each set, I would pause at the bottom, and then do a subtle isometric contraction with the intention of "lifting the weight" without actually lifting the weight. I also found that focusing on driving through my heels seemed an effective cue for getting the hamstrings and lower spine to release while still being active. bolster piriformis (w/ partner). Quite tight to begin with (which is expected after three weeks of skiing with only minimal stretching), but both sides released quickly, especially with the help of a partner applying some force on the free hip. single-leg downward dog (w/ partner). During the stretch this felt horrible (in particular just under the glute), and I felt amazing afterwards, which tells me it's a key stretch for my body. I did both sides twice. I eagerly await the day when I can do this stretch without it feeling like one of the circles of hell. 😁 quad stretch (w/ partner). Right quad was quite tight, so I did it twice. chest stick stretch (w/ two partners). Of late, my right biceps, brachioradialis, and right arm generally, has been quite sore, but never in a consistent manner, leading me to think that it's a nerve being compressed. When I stretched scalenes the other day, they released quickly, but with no major amelioration of the right arm soreness, making me think that pec minor may be the culprit. With the help of two partners, I was able to get in deep to my right pec minor tonight. It is substantially tighter than my left. There was a good release tonight, although it still feels like I wasn't able to fully relax in the end position. There is more to be done in the area, but this feels like progress for sure. Great session. On the drive home, I had a bout of spontaneous laughter. Good sign!

Obviously, I applaud your taste! For anyone who's interested, the collected "Grooks" of Piet Hein can be found here: https://piethein.com/shop/34-books-in-other-language/

Sun 26 Feb. Stretching. squat movements stick of virtue — calf-ham softening loaded soleus stretch (using 36, 40, 44kg kettlebells) Strength. Took last week off strength training, due to business with music stuff, and because my right shoulder was a bit grumpy from overzealous bent-pressing. Since I'm doing a long-haul flight halfway around the world tomorrow, I figured that my body needed to do some vigorous exercise, lest I turn into an air-travel zombie. Did a relaxed(ish) Simple and Sinister KB workout today: haloes: 3 x 10r x 16kg (2r = 1r clockwise, 1r anticlockwise) goblet squat: 5r x 24, 28, 32kg 1H swings: 10 x 10r x 32kg (50 reps per arm, 100 swings total) get-ups: 2 x 1r x 24kg (testing out shoulder); 10 x 1r x 32kg (5 get-ups per side) I last did this workout just after new year's, so it's great to feel that I own it with the 32kg. (To do this racing the clock would be another matter, however.) There was some wariness around how my right shoulder felt, but that just made me go slowly and carefully. I've experienced this before—the shoulder/biceps might be saying that there's an niggle or a tweak, but, in reality, I just need to pick up a sufficiently heavy weight in order to wake the relevant muscles up from their stupor. As always, there's a fine line between the sensations around the injury site: is the muscle saying "I am injured, please do not use," or "I was injured, are you sure you want to use me?" Today, during the get-ups, I could feel the external rotators in the right shoulder waking up (especially in the overhead position), and my shoulder feels far better than it has in a two weeks. Huzzah!

Tue 21 Feb. Stretching. Stick of virtue. I was playing with doing this in seiza, but on my toes (that is, with ankles dorsiflexed). I used a bolster between my hips and heels to lessen the intensity to a relaxable level, meaning that I could play with the position for longer. Elephant walk Lunge hamstring stretch Lying rotation Wed 22 Feb. Yoga Nidra. Stretching partner hip flexor stretch "human crossbow" chest stretch Fri 24 Feb. Busy with music obligations (for the Adelaide Fringe). Limbering. Worked on some squat movements.

I have a "grook" (an epigrammatic poem) by the Danish polymath Piet Hein, framed and hung on my wall, with words to this effect: Put up in a place where it's easy to see the cryptic admonishment T. T. T. When you feel how depressingly slowly you climb, it's well to remember that Things Take Time Thanks for your words of encouragement! I find it very helpful to be reminded that (a) Rome was in fact built, but (b) nowhere near a day. Onwards!

Mon 20 Feb. Massage. Good massage today. Had a lot of work done on my right arm, in particular. As she was working on the right brachioradialis, my whole body relaxed, and I felt I wave of sadness that had somehow gotten lodged there. (This particular release has actually happened before: for whatever reason, one of my "sadness" holding patterns seems to involve my right arm.) Took it easy for the rest of the day.